Cantons-de-l'Est

Quebec's wine heartland, in the rolling country along the Vermont border. Winters here would kill vinifera outright, so growers work with cold-hardy hybrids — Frontenac, Marquette, Vidal, Seyval — and have spent thirty years learning what those grapes can actually do.

The answer, increasingly, is a great deal. This is also the home of ice cider, a Quebec invention and one of the few genuinely new categories in the wine world.